The History and Cultural Legacy of Arak
“A bottle of arak requires five kilograms of grapes, 180 grams of aniseed, 13 hours of labor, 11 months of aging, and an afternoon to drink. And this is a recipe that has been refined through centuries.”
We went to Massaya winery and arak distillery to shoot an episode of Matbakh on location with Ramzi Ghosn, and discover the rich history of arak-making and the traditional techniques they’re still using today. For anyone who’s unfamiliar with arak and hasn’t had the pleasure of sipping on a glass yet, this is a brief guide to the well-loved beverage found across the eastern Mediterranean. (We still urge you to watch this episode though!)
What is Arak?
Arak is a triple-distilled spirit made from fermented grapes and aniseed, noted for its unsweetened, licorice-like flavor. Though the alcohol itself is translucent, it turns a milky color when mixed with ice and water. The name arak عرق derives from the Arabic word for “to perspire” or “to sweat”. This describes the condensation formed on the copper still during the distillation process.
History of Arak
The production of arak began with the invention of alembic distillation in the ninth century. This kind of distillation was the predecessor to modern-day stills. The karkeh still used by Massaya is a loyal reproduction of the traditional pot-stills.
Massaya’s vineyards
Arak, Wine and Grapes as a Way of Life
The production and consumption of wine and arak are closely intertwined. Since the two drinks share a common ingredient – grapes – it follows that vineyards are able to produce the two alcohols alongside each other. In fact, their production is symbiotic and seasonal, wherein wine was for winter, and arak for the summer. Historically – as Ramzi puts it – life was coordinated by grapes. People would harvest the fruit and ferment it into wine for a warming winter beverage. As winter drew to a close, they would prune the vines and use the shoots to start distilling arak in time for June. The grapes provided not only a beverage, but abundant vine leaves and grape molasses.
How is Arak Made?
In Lebanon, arak is produced under a kind of “appellation system” that imposes standards for production and the techniques used. This framework requires the use of Obeidy or Merwah white grapes and a process of triple-pot distillation. To be considered “proper Zahlé arak” the alcohol must also be aged for one year.
Here’s a quick look at the arak-making process, as described by Ramzi:
Step 1: Ferment grapes into wine.
Step 2: Put wine into the “karkeh” still. This transforms the 12% ABV wine into a stronger spirit containing 40% alcohol.
Step 3: The result is added back into the still and distilled once more. This produces a higher-quality alcohol called eau de vie.
Step 4: This eau de vie us distilled for a final time with fresh aniseed.
Step 5: The arak is aged.
Protecting Arak’s Heritage
On set at Massaya. Watch the full episode with Ramzi Gosn here
Despite growing global interest in arak, Lebanon faces significant challenges in preserving the heritage and cultural identity associated with this iconic beverage. As Ramzi sees it, commercialization and lack of advocacy pose threats to the authenticity, tradition and quality of arak. And despite the Lebanese appellation framework, the absence of global standards makes space for lower quality arak in markets around the world.
Ramzi highlights arak’s unique place within Lebanon’s rich cultural heritage, as well as its ability to capture global palates. Thus, he calls for global recognition and protection for the small-holder farmers and producers who are dedicated to preserving traditional arak making.
